Auto repair service near Lodi, OH

There are 165 auto repair shops near you in Lodi, OH

Plevris Auto Service

0.0(0)
3902 Copley Rd, Copley

S & S Auto Repair

0.0(0)

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Closed

141 S Main St, Oberlin

Midas Oberlin

0.0(0)
90 South Main Street, Oberlin

Paul's Car Care

0.0(0)

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Closed

6220 Manchester Rd, Clinton

Marks Automotive

0.0(0)

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Closed

6223 S Main Street, Clinton

Cunningham's Service

0.0(0)

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Closed

207 31st St SW, Barberton

Fuller Sales CO

0.0(0)
1291 Wooster Rd N, Barberton

Jimmys Auto LLC

0.0(0)
1180 Wooster Rd, Barberton

Jim's Automotive

0.0(0)

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Closed

742 Wooster Rd W, Barberton

DC Automotive

0.0(0)

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Closed

628 Wooster Rd W, Barberton

Ray Vierheller Automotive

0.0(0)

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Closed

119 Wooster Rd N, Barberton

A & S Transmission

0.0(0)

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Closed

2131 Wadsworth Road, Barberton

Genes Auto Sales

0.0(0)
353 Wooster Rd N, Barberton
5th & Robinson Service Center

5th & Robinson Service Center

0.0(0)

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Closed

109 5th Street Southeast, Barberton
Auto Service Excellence (ASE) certification
BBB Accredited certification
AAA Approved certification

Midstate Motors

0.0(0)
214 E State St, Barberton

Moving Up LLC

0.0(0)
1190 Wooster Rd N, Barberton

Caw Automotive

0.0(0)
1079 Eagon St, Barberton

Dale James Ford Inc

0.0(0)
616 W Main St, Apple Creek

Conrad's Tire Express & Total Car Care

0.0(0)

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Closed

17572 Pearl Rd, Strongsville

Mr. Tire Auto Service Centers

0.0(0)

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Closed

12300 Prospect Rd, Strongsville
Auto Service Excellence (ASE) certification
AAA Approved certification

Kennedy Auto Service

0.0(0)

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Closed

12102 Pearl Road, Strongsville
Rad Air Complete Car Care

Rad Air Complete Car Care

5.0(1)

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Closed

3904 Medina Rd, Fairlawn

Go to Rad Air to get your car work done. 8 years, 4 cars, multiple tires, emergencies and routine maintenance are why I confidently say to just go to Rad Air in Fairlawn. I've auditioned the competition because a backup plan is always good to have, usually. Each time, I use a competitor, I'm reminded why this business is successful. Dave and his team are quick, honest and go beyond what I expected. They have the technology repair the machine and help explain what's wrong. The completion time estimates are very reliable. Cold February and no heat create driving problems. Another garage insisted on multiple visits and "attempts" to repair the problem. As each bill came due - the message was clear. I worked nearby and coworkers suggested Rad Air for a solution. In one try they permanently and affordably repaired the problem. From the heat in the car to the gearbox on the engine - brakes, oil, wiper blades and ..yes, the loaner cars, all needs are met. Depending on how close you work - you may get a lift back to work with your road test. Being a passenger in your own car can make the process easier. I've been towed in and limped in. Each time feeling the relief knowing the solution was near. When I broke down in Cleveland I was relieved to see the Garfield Hts location nearby. They do things THE SAME WAY! You'd think they are all family. Go to Radair - don't take chances. Ted M. Akron, OH

Auto Service Excellence (ASE) certification

A OK Auto and Muffler

1.0(1)

·

Closed

2532 N Ridge Rd, Elyria

A-OK tried to scam me into unneeded repair, charged the equivalent of $420/hour for a short term patch and for reading and clearing an engine code (which parts stores do free), and cracked a rear brake line. Another shop sent me to A-OK to fabricate a replacement Y-pipe for my exhaust. It had two tiny leaks that were apparently interfering with the oxygen sensor and causing an engine code. Two A-OK mechanics immediately told me that both front and both rear catalytic converters were bad and that the entire exhaust past the manifold had to be replaced, at an unspecified cost more than "you could buy a car for." Since the rear catalytic converters had only surface rust and the front catalytic converters were merely dull from road grime, I asked how A-OK knew that they were bad. In response, one mechanic began trying to jab holes with a screw driver in the rear catalytic converters, as if to guarantee that they had to be replaced. The covers on the rear catalytic converters not only held, but rang from the blows, so he pointed to the front catalytic converters and said, "See! They're ALL bad! You have to replace the whole thing! EX-PEN-SIVE!" I did not see, and asked, again, "How can you tell that the catalytic converters are bad, just by looking at them?" Rather than answer the question, both mechanics immediately decided that the exhaust was "good, fine," after all, and, without asking me, smeared "pipe dope" on the part that the first shop had sent me to them for replacement. By this point, I did not trust A-OK, but decided that even their short-term patch would at least let me clear the engine code and verify its cause, while I searched for a replacement Y-pipe. Without waiting for the lift to completely lower, A-OK pulled back the lift arms on the driver's side--a detail that would soon learn was very important. A-OK's striking careless with its tools and materials and its comically clumsy workmanship did nothing to inspire my confidence in its competence, so, when A-OK told me they needed to reread and clear the engine code, I almost refused. While struggling to decide how much to charge me, the chief mechanic asked me what I did for a living, then immediately brightened and announced that the approximately five minutes labor came to $35 plus tax ($37.28). He repeatedly stressed that this was for "smearing pipe dope AND clearing the CODE," and said "THAT (clearing the code) oughta be WORTH SOMETHING, right?" (Parts stores think it is worth good will!) Looking out the window to my car, I was surprised to see a pool of watery-looking fluid, midway between the wheels on the driver's side. I could think of no other explanation, so, even though no other car had been there for at least an hour, and the day was hot and sunny, I passed it off as condensation from someone else's car that had a working AC. When I braked, before pulling onto the street from A-OK's lot, I was surprised by how soft the brakes were, but did not immediately connection that with the fluid under my car. The brakes were rapidly getting worse, fading out completely at traffic lights, so I stopped and checked the brake fluid level. It was fine. Again, I noticed a watery fluid, midway between the wheels on the driver's side, but did not crawl under to investigate, reasoning that a brake fluid leak bad enough to have produced it would have been evident in the fluid level. On my way back to the first shop (which also does brakes), the brake light came on. The first shop quickly discovered a crack in the driver's side brake line, midway between the wheels, which neither I nor their two mechanics had seen two hours earlier, and which neither I nor two mechanics at A-OK had seen while the car was on the lift. The second shop agreed that it was "plausible" that A-OK had broken the brake line by removing the lift arms before they were completely clear of the undercarriage, noting that the crack was "in just the right spot, for that to occur." "That's a HEAVY DUTY brake line! It would take QUITE A BLOW to break it" The line had to be ordered (I found it at $50), and, by the time I got home, I had a "FLUIDS" warning and very little braking capacity. Thanks to A-OK, I still need to replace the Y-pipe now need to replace the brake line.

Motor Heads

0.0(0)

·

Closed

11328 Lagrange Rd, Elyria
Rons Transmission

Rons Transmission

0.0(0)

·

Closed

675 Oberlin Elyria Road, Elyria

Ron's Transmission has been serving the Northern Ohio area since 1983. We are dedicated to fixing not only the problem but also the cause. It is our mission to repair vehicles in a timely manor. At Ron's we believe Word-of-mouth is the best advertisement, so each customer is treated to a swift repair to get them back on the road with out adding more, to an already stressful situation.

Auto Service Excellence (ASE) certification

Auto repair reviews near you

1.0

A-OK tried to scam me into unneeded repair, charged the equivalent of $420/hour for a short term patch and for reading and clearing an engine code (which parts stores do free), and cracked a rear brake line. Another shop sent me to A-OK to fabricate a replacement Y-pipe for my exhaust. It had two tiny leaks that were apparently interfering with the oxygen sensor and causing an engine code. Two A-OK mechanics immediately told me that both front and both rear catalytic converters were bad and that the entire exhaust past the manifold had to be replaced, at an unspecified cost more than "you could buy a car for." Since the rear catalytic converters had only surface rust and the front catalytic converters were merely dull from road grime, I asked how A-OK knew that they were bad. In response, one mechanic began trying to jab holes with a screw driver in the rear catalytic converters, as if to guarantee that they had to be replaced. The covers on the rear catalytic converters not only held, but rang from the blows, so he pointed to the front catalytic converters and said, "See! They're ALL bad! You have to replace the whole thing! EX-PEN-SIVE!" I did not see, and asked, again, "How can you tell that the catalytic converters are bad, just by looking at them?" Rather than answer the question, both mechanics immediately decided that the exhaust was "good, fine," after all, and, without asking me, smeared "pipe dope" on the part that the first shop had sent me to them for replacement. By this point, I did not trust A-OK, but decided that even their short-term patch would at least let me clear the engine code and verify its cause, while I searched for a replacement Y-pipe. Without waiting for the lift to completely lower, A-OK pulled back the lift arms on the driver's side--a detail that would soon learn was very important. A-OK's striking careless with its tools and materials and its comically clumsy workmanship did nothing to inspire my confidence in its competence, so, when A-OK told me they needed to reread and clear the engine code, I almost refused. While struggling to decide how much to charge me, the chief mechanic asked me what I did for a living, then immediately brightened and announced that the approximately five minutes labor came to $35 plus tax ($37.28). He repeatedly stressed that this was for "smearing pipe dope AND clearing the CODE," and said "THAT (clearing the code) oughta be WORTH SOMETHING, right?" (Parts stores think it is worth good will!) Looking out the window to my car, I was surprised to see a pool of watery-looking fluid, midway between the wheels on the driver's side. I could think of no other explanation, so, even though no other car had been there for at least an hour, and the day was hot and sunny, I passed it off as condensation from someone else's car that had a working AC. When I braked, before pulling onto the street from A-OK's lot, I was surprised by how soft the brakes were, but did not immediately connection that with the fluid under my car. The brakes were rapidly getting worse, fading out completely at traffic lights, so I stopped and checked the brake fluid level. It was fine. Again, I noticed a watery fluid, midway between the wheels on the driver's side, but did not crawl under to investigate, reasoning that a brake fluid leak bad enough to have produced it would have been evident in the fluid level. On my way back to the first shop (which also does brakes), the brake light came on. The first shop quickly discovered a crack in the driver's side brake line, midway between the wheels, which neither I nor their two mechanics had seen two hours earlier, and which neither I nor two mechanics at A-OK had seen while the car was on the lift. The second shop agreed that it was "plausible" that A-OK had broken the brake line by removing the lift arms before they were completely clear of the undercarriage, noting that the crack was "in just the right spot, for that to occur." "That's a HEAVY DUTY brake line! It would take QUITE A BLOW to break it" The line had to be ordered (I found it at $50), and, by the time I got home, I had a "FLUIDS" warning and very little braking capacity. Thanks to A-OK, I still need to replace the Y-pipe now need to replace the brake line.

M.
A OK Auto and Muffler Logo

A OK Auto and Muffler

Elyria area

5.0

Go to Rad Air to get your car work done. 8 years, 4 cars, multiple tires, emergencies and routine maintenance are why I confidently say to just go to Rad Air in Fairlawn. I've auditioned the competition because a backup plan is always good to have, usually. Each time, I use a competitor, I'm reminded why this business is successful. Dave and his team are quick, honest and go beyond what I expected. They have the technology repair the machine and help explain what's wrong. The completion time estimates are very reliable. Cold February and no heat create driving problems. Another garage insisted on multiple visits and "attempts" to repair the problem. As each bill came due - the message was clear. I worked nearby and coworkers suggested Rad Air for a solution. In one try they permanently and affordably repaired the problem. From the heat in the car to the gearbox on the engine - brakes, oil, wiper blades and ..yes, the loaner cars, all needs are met. Depending on how close you work - you may get a lift back to work with your road test. Being a passenger in your own car can make the process easier. I've been towed in and limped in. Each time feeling the relief knowing the solution was near. When I broke down in Cleveland I was relieved to see the Garfield Hts location nearby. They do things THE SAME WAY! You'd think they are all family. Go to Radair - don't take chances. Ted M. Akron, OH

Ted
Rad Air Complete Car Care Logo

Rad Air Complete Car Care

Fairlawn area